(2) Two Brand New/NOS Drum Pad Button Switches For E-mu SP1200 LinnDrum - MINT!

Description

Two switches to replace worn out, smoked-out, tarnished contact switches on an E-mu SP1200 (80s or 90s black reissue), LinnDrum, or others listed below.
New/NOS, unused, never used, never soldered into a machine, they only have very light scuffs on some of them due to rubbing together in bags since they were new.
The gold contacts are perfect, totally clean, untarnished, and will guarantee perfect electrical contact without any drum sound mistriggering.
Of all the problems disclosed by sellers of these old drum machines, bad buttons are the #1 problem, "...a few of the drum pads need recalibration...", or "...Drum pad #4 must be hit with a lot of force in order to trigger a sound...", or "...Drum pad #1 will trigger a sound many times from one push....", or "...a few of the drum pads need recalibration...", and on and on...
I've hoarded this type of switches for decades, mostly using them in my repairs and restorations of LinnDrums and SP1200s (and I STILL have more Linns and SPs than anyone who ever stepped on the Earth), but lately I've moved to finish up a lot of my work on LinnDrums and SP1200s to get to selling them, and see that I have more switches than I need to finish what I have going, so I can list some lots here on eBay in the right quantities to renew ALL the buttons on your machine at once.
The same basic type of switch was used on many 80s drum machines, here's a reference of how many switches each type used:
(5) E-mu Drumulator
(10) E-mu SP12
(10) E-mu SP1200 (80s gray and 90s black reissues)
(36) Linn LinnDrum
(26, but not black and most marked w/numbers/arrows) Linn 9000
(14) MXR Drum Computer
(48, but some red or white or marked w/numbers/arrows) Oberheim DMX and DMX MIDI
(42, but some red or white or marked w/numbers/arrows or w/LEDs) Oberheim DX
(18, the others are smaller difficult Japanese buttons, these machines are crap) Oberheim DX MIDI
(12) Oberheim Stretch DX
(15) SCI Drumtraks
(9) SCI TOM
If I overlooked one, let me know!
Replacement tips and techniques from my 32 years working with these:
Correct orientation: Please note which way the worn out old switch is oriented when you remove it. On the bottom of each switch, there are two gold pins and two black plastic stubs, it will fit in the board two ways, but one way is wrong. Only two of the holes/solder pads have traces connecting to the circuitry of the drum machine, those are the ones that go to the gold pins. The two black plastic stubs are just bosses to hold the switch more securely, as it only has two legs soldered in.
Solder without melting it: Solder the new switch to the board by hand and do it quickly, without overheating the switch pins so much that they melt the plastic switch body above. Do it in two seconds or less. It's just a pin, not a water pipe.
Other cap styles and fitting: Switches of this type were made for decades and used by many different companies, most were black but some were red, some were white, some had an LED in the corner, some had arrows on top, some had numbers on top, etc.. All revisions fit the PCB the same, no problem, but sometimes the cap of one of one vintage will snap onto the base of another and sometimes it won't fit so well, sometimes vice versa. In the past, I've used a non-LED swich to replace an LED switch by adding my own mini-LED into the base (the base always has two pin holes for the LED whether the top cap is the LED type with the LED hole or not), sometimes by putting the LED type switch cap on top of a new switch that doesn't have the LED, other times that didn't fit well so I carefully drilled a hole for the LED in the non-LED cap which did fit properly. I can't believe I did all that crazy handiwork for machines I sold out of the Recycler for -5. But I met some good people that way.
There is a minimum shipping price for all of my small components and a different minimum for a very low value item or for something or more. However, I can ship almost any number of parts for the international shipping that it shows for most of those items. So if you want, for example, an SP1200 overlay and some knobs and some switches, or knobs and switches and potentiometers or whatever, just let me know IN ADVANCE and I will set up a special listing for you so that you will only pay the shipping once. This is if you tell me IN ADVANCE, not if you ask for it later because any shipping money paid has already been docked 4% by PayPal and another 10% by eBay and that money is not coming back. Yes, eBay takes 10% of the stated shipping charge since 2011, and PayPal has always taken 4% of that money for international and 3% for domestic. So let me know in advance and I can set it up so that you can save a lot of money by buying and shipping the parts together.
I can also set up special listings for different quantities of items sometimes. Usually the price is the same per item but I can set it up and that saves a lot of money on shipping.